United Nations of Beer

GABF Gold Medal Dinner 2009

by UtahSteve
(ogden, ut usa)

GABF Gold Medal Dinner 2009
September 23, 2009
The Kitchen (Upstairs)
Boulder, Colorado

On my beer travels around the country over the last 20 years I have encountered many things. Some good, some bad and a couple of inspirational events that transcend.

Last evening in Boulder at The Kitchen (Upstairs) was one of these events. This beer dinner, held in conjunction with the Great American Beer Festival, was the 3rd incarnation and I understand that it has been improving every year.

Hosted by The Kitchen, one of Boulder's premier restaurants, and presided over by Adam Avery, Vinnie Cilurzo, Sam Calagione, Tomme Arthur and, since Rob Tod had a prior engagement, Jason came in his place. These men need absolutely no introduction.

The event sold out at 60 lucky guests and at $140 was not inexpensive but most definitely worth every penny, not only for the amazing food and rare beers but to hear the banter between these amazing brewers who have been friends for a long time. Not only are they friends, but they have travelled together to Belgium and have worked in each other's brewhouses.

All the guests were seated communally which allowed for a comfortable and festive atmosphere. Everyone introduced themselves and conversation at our table varied from home brewing to consciously trying to use the best local products and sustainability.

Although the first course did not arrive at the table for over an hour, it wasn't as if it was slow in coming. Sam came around and introduced himself "before I get too drunk" and of course we had plenty of beer and conversation so time was not an issue.

The menu consisted of five courses paired with two beers each for a total of ten. According to the chef, the menu wasn't really about the pairings, but as most beer foodies know there is really no bad pairing.

1. House Made Charcuterie Board (duck tureen, whipped lardon, smoked duck breast, pickled string beans, white beans, apple compote and peach compote)
• Avery duganA & Russian River Sanctification

The food starts spectacularly. My favorites were the smoked duck breast and the whipped lardon. Avery duganA is hugely hoppy with an intense aroma and flavor. My impression is that it is a wet hop ale but can't be sure. The Russian River Sanctification is very sour and presents a flavor of green apples.

2. Heirloom Squash and Chestnut Soup w/Smoked Salmon, Sage & Grains Of Paradise
• Avery Sui Generis & Dogfish Head Punkin Ale

We are now almost two hours in and the soup is served piping hot. It is very evident that not only did the chef care about preparing his menu, but is taking the time to make sure that it is presented properly.

I don't really know what Grains Of Paradise are, but the soup is amazing and the squash and salmon go together nicely. The Avery Sui Generis is a house blend of ten different barrels and is incredibly sour, but in the Avery tradition also has a high gravity so it is very well balanced by sweetness. The soup paired nicely with the Dogfish Head Punkin (though this beer seemed oddly out of place.)

3. Prosciutto Ravioli with Colorado Nectarine, Grilled Radicchio & Mint
• Allagash Interlude & Allagash Fluxus

As a whole this was an amazing plate. The ravioli and the nectarines! OMG! I am actually having trouble describing this. One of my table mates asked if I wanted to be alone.

The Fluxus was brewed with sweet potato and pepper and as such should be spicy but isn't at all. It is nicely balanced and smooth. The Interlude is also very nice.

It has now been over two hours and things are still going very well. None of us are noticing the passage of time and couldn't care less that the food courses are spaced nearly 45 minutes apart.

4. Whole Roasted Squab with Quinoa, Brussels Sprouts & Cured Pork Belly
• Lost Abbey Cuvee de Tomme & Russian River Damnation 23

Since I have never had squab before I can't say that it was really squab, as it seemed rather large, but is was very well prepared and another incredible dish.

The Cuvee de Tomme is VERY sour and will be an acquired taste for most and, unlike the Avery beers, the high gravity contributes very little sweetness to balance the sour. The Damnation 23 (watch the video to find out more about this beer) was one of the nicer beers. Not overly sour or oaky given the amount of time spent aging.

5. Pumpkin Napoleon with Crème Fraiche
• Lost Abbey Duck Duck Gooze & Dogfish Head Palo Santo Marron

Finally dessert! At just after 10pm we were served the final course. This was by far the highlight of the evening.

Pumpkin "Mousse" served in between triangles of dark chocolate and topped by a dollop of crème fraiche. Absolutely stunning.

Having had the Duck Duck Gooze before I knew that this beer was very sour and is one of my favorite sour beers. The Palo Santo Marron I had not tasted before and was a truly fine beer. Cherry, oak & vanilla dominate the myriad and complex flavors. Leave it to Sam to come up with such a unique beer.

Overall an incredible experience and a highlight of my beer-soaked existence.